December 2024 Science Wrap Up

Happy holidays and hello 2025! Having survived our version of Black Friday in early November, and the rapid onboarding of many new team members and the planning for a jam-packed 2025, we’re all well and truly ready for a nice break. If you get a few days off, enjoy them to the max! We all need it. How about a good read on the latest journal articles? This is a great stash! Happy New Year and I can’t wait to share more about what 2025 has in store…….. 

We’ll say it again- the pH of your skincare really matters!

In case you missed it, the pH of your skincare matters A LOT. And a new study published in the Journal of Investigative Dermatology just made this even clearer. The authors explain how important your skin's pH is for maintaining a healthy skin barrier. The acid mantle, a slightly acidic layer on the skin’s surface, helps protect against harmful bacteria, pollutants, and inflammation. This acidic environment is key for keeping the skin barrier intact and functioning properly.

Skin pH usually sits between 4.1 and 5.8, but can change thanks to things like age, genetics, or using harsh skincare and soaps. When the pH gets out of whack (becoming too alkaline), the skin’s barrier weakens, which can lead to dryness, irritation, and worsen skin conditions like eczema, acne, or psoriasis. 

Different parts of the skin have slightly different pH levels, which helps enzymes work to maintain hydration and protection. Products that are too alkaline, like many soaps, can mess up this balance, leaving skin dry and irritated. That’s why there’s a push for pH-friendly skincare, with slightly acidic cleansers and skincare products designed to keep everything in check. 

ESK has been committed to this for years. We are completely transparent about the pH of every single product. I haven’t seen the same from other brands. Maybe we should send them our science wrap? 

The evidence for polynucleotides for skin rejuvenation hots up

If you go to the UK to an aesthetics conference, as we do, these polynucleotides are the hottest things since sliced bread. Everyone has gone crazy for them. They’re now in Australia- not the US for aesthetic purposes- YET. So what’s the evidence? A brand-new review was just published in the journal, Dermatologic Surgery. Here’s the low down; Polynucleotides, made up of chains of nucleotides (the building blocks of DNA and RNA), are going crazy in skincare and aesthetic medicine for their regenerative effects on tissue. Sourced from salmon sperm cells (yes, you heard that correctly), these polynucleotides support cell repair, particularly in aging skin. 

The polynucleotides work by actually entering cells through a process called pinocytosis, acting as donors of purine and pyrimidine bases - key molecules for cellular repair. They also attract water, potentially improving skin hydration and elasticity, which could benefit aging skin- at least temporarily. Moreover, studies show they activate the A2A receptor, a pathway involved in reducing inflammation and promoting tissue repair. This in turn increases the production of VEGF, a factor that promotes blood vessel growth, and enhances collagen synthesis- voila healthier-looking skin.

Early published case studies report improved skin texture and reduced signs of aging without significant side effects, and many of my friends who are aesthetic doctors and nurse practitioners in the UK are really impressed with the results they’re seeing in their clinics.

The authors concluded that more rigorous research is needed to confirm their long-term safety and efficacy in aesthetics. 

GLP-1 agonists like Ozempic - for the skin

From Ozempic to Mounjaro, the GLP-1 receptor agonist injections seem to have no end of benefits beyond weight loss. Interestingly, GLP1RAs are now being explored in dermatology. This was the subject of a new study in the Journal of Drugs in Dermatology.  From what I can see, the linking thread is skin conditions linked to inflammation and chronic diseases. For example, the authors pointed to studies that suggest they may help with skin conditions like psoriasis by reducing inflammation and improving symptoms, especially for patients with both psoriasis and diabetes. They also show promise for hidradenitis suppurativa (HS), a painful skin condition presenting as recurrent boils- usually in the armpits and groin, often linked to obesity. The GLP1RAs act by helping to reduce inflammation and improving skin health overall. Some small studies even hint at benefits for rare skin conditions like Hailey-Hailey disease and acanthosis nigricans (which is linked to polycystic ovarian syndrome).

However, GLP1RAs aren't without side effects. As these drugs lead to rapid weight loss, patients may experience skin sagging, “Ozempic face” (a hollow, aged appearance due to facial fat loss), and hair thinning. There are also skin-related reactions to the drug themselves, from mild rashes to rare, serious effects like bullous pemphigoid (a type of blistering disorder).

It will be exciting to see more research involving dermatologists and other clinicians working together to monitor these drugs’ effects on the skin- good and bad.