Hello skintellectuals. February had us back in Australia – for 2 days before leaving for London. This time we met with many stockists, xo-hosted an event with aesthetic plastic facial surgeon (think face lifts and the like- the MOST difficult plastic surgery procedure!) Dr Jonathan Britto at his rooms in Harley Street. The week culminated in our favourite Menopause in Aesthetics conference. This conference combines aesthetics and menopause. I chaired panels on vaginal health, mental health, early menopause as well as skin health! So spending time in lounges I was able to scour the latest medical journals to bring you the February science wrap!
What is inflammageing?
There was a great new review article titled "Natural Modulators of Key Signalling Pathways in Skin Inflammageing," published in Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology. It was basically a comprehensive review of the processing with the term we’ve called skin inflammageing – where chronic, low-grade inflammation turbo charges skin aging. The review delves into various chemical pathways implicated in this process, such as the NF-κB, MAPK, and JAK-STAT pathways, which play crucial roles in the regulation of inflammatory responses and cellular aging.
The authors highlight several natural compounds with potential but as yet unproven anti-inflammageing effects:
· Polyphenols: Found in foods like green tea and grapes, polyphenols have been shown to inhibit the NF-κB pathway, thereby reducing inflammation.
· Flavonoids: Present in various fruits and vegetables, as well as coffee, flavonoids can modulate the MAPK pathway, leading to decreased production of pro-inflammatory cytokines.
· Terpenoids: These compounds, abundant in herbs and spices, have demonstrated the ability to interfere with the JAK-STAT pathway, resulting in anti-inflammatory effects.
By targeting key signalling pathways, these compounds may one day help in reducing chronic inflammation and slowing the skin aging process.
The Skin Barrier: Your Skin’s Ultimate Bodyguard
This month saw a new review published in The Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology, all about your skin’s first line of defence—the epidermal barrier. Think of it as a superhero shield, keeping the good stuff (like hydration) in and the bad stuff (like bacteria and pollutants) out. At the heart of this defence is the stratum corneum (SC), the outermost layer of your skin. If you’ve ever struggled with dry, sensitive, or acne-prone skin, your SC might be a little stressed out!
How the Skin Barrier Works
Picture a brick wall. Your skin cells (corneocytes) are the bricks, and lipids (fats) are the mortar holding everything together. This structure helps regulate water loss, maintain elasticity, and ward off irritants.
· The Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF) inside these cells acts like a built-in sponge, keeping things hydrated.
· The lipid layer, made up of ceramides, cholesterol, and fatty acids, ensures your skin doesn’t dry out.
When all is well, your skin is smooth, plump, and happy. But when things go south, usually due to harsh weather, over-cleansing, or conditions like eczema or acne, your barrier takes a hit.
What Happens When the Barrier Breaks?
A compromised skin barrier = trouble. More transepidermal water loss (TEWL) leads to dryness, irritation, and even breakouts. Your skin tries to fix itself by producing more lipids and triggering repair mechanisms, but repeated stress (like too many irritating ingredients or a high pH in your skincare routine or environmental triggers) can overwhelm this process.
Certain skin conditions make things even trickier:
· Eczema (Atopic Dermatitis) – Skin struggles to retain moisture due to lower ceramide levels.
· Psoriasis – Overactive skin cell turnover disrupts the lipid balance.
· Acne – Acne-prone skin has a weaker barrier, making it more prone to inflammation.
· Rosacea – A sensitive, easily irritated barrier can lead to persistent redness and discomfort.
How to Support Your Skin Barrier
· Gentle Cleansing: Harsh soaps? No, thanks! Opt for mild, pH-balanced cleansers that won’t strip natural oils.
Calming Cleanse
Our Calming Cleanser is a non-foaming, coconut sugar-based formula with a gentle pH of 4.5-5, making it ideal for sensitive skin types, including those with eczema and rosacea.
This creamy cleanser effectively removes impurities while preserving the skin’s natural hydration and pH balance. Its non-soap formula minimises irritation and dryness, providing a soothing cleanse without disrupting the skin barrier.
Designed for sensitive skin, Calming Cleanser avoids harsh ingredients like astringents, camphor, and menthol, which can trigger irritation. Gentle yet thorough, it supports a healthy microbiome and barrier, leaving skin calm, soft, and ready for the next step in your routine.
Featuring;
- A coconut sugar base with soothing botanical
- A thorough yet gentle cleanse
- Suitable for daily use and even as a make-up remover
A creamy soap-free cleanser for skin that needs a gentle, silky wash.
- Coconut based with soothing botanicals
- Leaves skin clear & hydrated
- May be used as a make-up remover
· Moisturising Smartly: Look for formulas with a combination of occlusive ingredients that trap moisture in the skin and prevent it from evaporating, humectants that draw water into the skin from the air and the underlying tissues and emollients that plump and soften the skin.
Repair +
Repair+ is your go-to moisturiser for supporting and healing your skin’s barrier. Formulated with niacinamide, panthenol, hyaluronic acid and ceramides, this cream works to strengthen, hydrate, and protect irritable or compromised skin. Niacinamide boosts hydration, reduces redness, and improves fine lines and pores, giving skin a healthy resilience. Panthenol, known for its calming properties, soothes irritation and promotes skin repair. Hyaluronic acid hydrates and repairs skin. And Ceramides help lock in moisture, prevent water loss, and shield against environmental stressors. Free from scents, parabens, and sulphates, Repair+ is your go to product for dry and irritable skin.
Featuring;.
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Powerful skin barrier builders to hydrate and calm dry and sensitive skin.
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Anti inflammatory ingredients to rosacea, psoriasis and eczema symptoms.
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Scent free, paraben free and sulphate free formulation
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Potent effectiveness but gentle enough for daily use
· Barrier-Friendly Actives: Retinol and prescription retinoids, benzoyl peroxide, and AHAs are great, but use them wisely and balance them with hydration. Retinal, of course, is non-irritating and fine with a damaged skin barrier.
Ultimate A
Our Ultimate A Night Cream harnesses the power of retinal- the most powerful yet gentle form of Vitamin A in skincare. Retinal is as effective as retinoic acid in fighting skin aging, but without the irritation. Ultimate A’s 0.06% retinal concentration, paired with niacinamide, delivers a potent anti-aging boost. This night cream promotes skin cell turnover, supports collagen and elastin production, and helps prevent UV damage. It also reduces pigmentation, improves hydration, and even soothes acne and rosacea. With Ultimate A, expect fewer fine lines, firmer, more elastic skin, and a beautifully refreshed complexion, all with a gentle, irritation-free formula ideal for nightly use.
Featuring
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The ultimate skincare tool to rebuild collagen and improve skin elasticity
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Powerful formulations but extreme gentleness.
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Suitability for daily use
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Formulated to reduce hyperpigmentation
Retinal is not suitable for use in pregnancy.
· pH Matters: Your skin thrives at a slightly acidic pH (around 4.5–5.5). Avoid overly alkaline products that mess with this balance.
A strong skin barrier = healthy, resilient skin. So, if your skin is feeling tight, flaky, or irritated, show it some love with the right care, and it will love you back!
Thyroid disease and skin disease- what’s the link?
Dr. Anne and I have recently become slightly obsessed with the link between autoimmune diseases of all descriptions and their effects on the skin. We’ll have a new eBook out soon. Meanwhile, what should come up in my perusing the literature but a new study published in the journal Frontiers in Endocrinology. It looked specifically at thyroid disease (which is usually an autoimmune condition) and autoimmune skin conditions. They found strong evidence that certain inflammatory and autoimmune skin conditions—particularly atopic dermatitis (AD), systemic lupus erythematosus (SLE), seborrheic dermatitis (SD), and psoriasis—give you an increased risk of an underactive thyroid. The likely culprits? It’s a combination of immune system dysfunction, genetic predisposition, and metabolic imbalances. The study did a deep dive to all the pathways and chemicals involved in each skin condition—have a read if that stuff floats your boat!
Interestingly, bullous pemphigoid (BP) showed a slight protective effect against hypothyroidism, though this result should be interpreted cautiously due to limited data. Meanwhile, no links were found between thyroid disease and conditions like rosacea, vitiligo, alopecia areata or urticaria, despite previous observational studies suggesting otherwise. Given these findings, people with AD, SLE, SD, or psoriasis vulgaris should get regularly tested for thyroid levels, as these skin issues could be early warning signs of autoimmune disease.
Looking forward to the change of seasons! See you next month!